Thursday, October 13, 2005

Don Juan Tenorio

Don Juan, an unrepentant sex-addict...


"Don Giovanni"s production at the Teatro Real ( Act I, Scene IV) Posted by Picasa


The Mibel Expert, a charming inhabitant of the diplomatic offices at Calle Pinar, 1, took the trouble to purchase the tickets from the Teatro Real website. Off we went, through successive check-points manned by fluorescent-jacketed traffic wardens (called here, very post-modernly "agentes de movilidad") who try to prevent everybody driving his own private car from getting near the Opera house.

Seeing "Don Giovanni" in Spain, with a Spanish director, is an interesting addition to the curriculum of a Mozart/Da Ponte groupie ( one should say Mozart/Da Ponte the way one says Lennon/McCartney or Gilbert/O'Sullivan). As the Honourable Reader knows very well and will probably resent to be told as if He was an ignoramus, the character of Don Giovanni stems from a creation of Tirso de Molina, a Spaniard, about a century earlier. So drinking D. Juan Tenorio in their breast milk, like Spaniards do, would legitimize, so to speak, a preferential insight into Don Giovanni's psyche. Was that so? Not sure.

You need to have a special insight to read the mind of such a overwhelming FB ('fucking bastard', for those of you, poor prudes, not knowing the acronym) as D. Juan. One is tempted to say that one would have to be either Mr DaPonte himself (a leacherous, lewd man who wrote the libretto, among other jobs he was working on in parallel, day and night "diverted only by Tokay, snuff, coffee, and a nubile 16 year-old" ); or a successful dashing-looking baritone who has performed many times that demanding role to generalized acclaim, like Mr Rodney Gilfry; or a man who had been there, indulging in serial seducing, as with a kind of unquenchable thirst for passionate love, like Mr Giacomo Casanova (or, some might say, this very blogger of yours, which I rush to disclaim as false, calumnious and actionable in Justice).

Let's cut the crap, as they say in B-movies, with heavy New Jersey accent. There are only two things that justify our obsession with "Don Giovanni" the opera, and neither of them is the mere enjoyment of great music. One, to confront an FB in its pure state, to stare at that terminal polygamous hyper-eroticism and take little personal notes; two, to try to make something out of the dinner-party where the (Statue of the) Commendattore turns from Guest to Host. (About this latter, near- metaphysical, issue I'll blog about separately)

To address the FB issue first: I think Gilfry got it absolutely spot on. Don Giovanni is a bad boy, a spoilt brat that has never stopped a second to consider that there might be red lines in one's behavior. He has an addictive personality (he would be heavily into crack, horse or GHB if he was living in this day and age) and he gets his adrenalin rushes, his kicks, out of sexual humiliation of women. He enjoys sex alright, but in his refined taste as a Gentilluomo what he really craves for is surrender. After a while, blasé, only the ultimate kick, playing with death itself, can make his blood levels reach the needed dosis. He's prepared to do almost anything once he senses that there's a more rare and exquisite sensation on offer. The Commendattore's resurrected self carries a invitation to rub shoulders with Death Herself, the ultimate lover. Drug-taking and death-wish, so Kurt Cobhamian, no? So, Jim Morrisonesque, so JamesDeany...…

But, Ladies and Gentlemen, (in particular Ladies) , Don Juan is not a man who loves women, let's be crystal clear about it. He loves himself (as a matter of fact I don't think he ever stops to meditate in such deep thoughts as to whether he could theorize about emotions, affections and sex, and get some self-awareness from that: he, to put it simply, doesn't do Freud); he lets his dick do all the talking and all the action too. Now, that last feature can be extremely and very powerfuly endearing to women, who time and again, would rather be Queens for an hour (with plenty of fluid-exchanging taking place) than Duchesses all their lifes. But Don Juan/Don Giovanni has no redeeming features. He is no Valmont (who dies not out of arrogance but of romantic will to be redeemed by one noble gesture stemming from his love towards Mme de Torvelle). He is no, definitely not, no Casanova (no Henriette that could have redeemed him and Elvira was condemned to failure).

In fact, Don Juan is a shame for our profession. Those of us who have kept our hearts pumping with the sense that a new passion could be on the way; those of us who felt the pain of un-reciprocated love but still persevere; those of us who delude themselves by being sure each time that this last young soul might be the one - we do not recognize ourselves in Don Giovanni. A collector of sexual experiences is not one of us, I hope I made myself clear.


Casanova is not a choir boy, for sure, and he has the masculine arrogance, mixed with sexual charism, that made him write these words, in his The History of My Life:

" The man who loves and knows that he is loved rates the pleasure he is sure he will give the loved object more highly than the pleasure which that object can give him in fruition. Hence he is eager to satisfy her. Woman, whose great preoccupation is her own interest, cannot but rate the pleasure she will herself feel more highly than the pleasure she will give; hence she procrastinates as long as she can because she fears that in giving herself she will loose what concerns her most - her own pleasure".

Why am I saying all this, the Honourable Reader might ask, already with signs of hyperventilation and close to exasperation? Because people, in particular women scorned in their desires, tend to amalgamate Don Juan and Casanova, and pretend it's all the same. It's not. Don Juan is the mirror at which unhappy women look, with faces turned ugly by love-pain, and find themselves beautiful. Very quickly it becomes easy to leap from Don Juan/Lovelace/FB seducer to Casanova/Their own lost lover and from there to All-Men-Are-The-Same.

That's why I believe the Program and leaflets of a Don Giovanni production should carry a kind of Health Warning: "Take Don Juan as the paradigm of What-Men-Really-Are-Given-The-Chance at your own risk".…

Tuesday, October 11, 2005

K'ung-fu-tzu

The Confucian Balance of Self and Other...


The discrete charm of the chinoiserie Posted by Picasa


Yuan restaurant, in Velazquez, Friday night. Chinese Haute Cuisine on offer. A very pleasant "pandilla" with the usual mixed blood ( Andalucian-Castillan-Navarro-Cuban-Argentino-Paraguayan) plus two compatriots of this blogger of yours. Argentinian men are handsome specimens of the latifundium owner type one normally associates with Jerez. In between the dim-sun and the Imperial duck we had a very raucous party going on (one just loves to be able to use an adjective as powerfully sounding like "raucous" once in a while..). Some of us decided to continue to indulge our drinking habits at a private apartment, and at the risk of not having his favourite spirit at hand a bottle of Bombay gin was hastily accquired by the Smiling Porteño. I happily obliged when asked to tell the story of how can a once promising medical doctor become a full time diplomat. Causing the biggest effect on the listening public is still the line when, after a convenient Stanislavskyan pause, I reveal that my entrance "thesis" to the Foreign Ministry was on "Comparative Nuclear Doctrines of the U.S. and USSR". Never lets me down, that one. Admiring features, impressed smiles but also one or two suspicious glances ( "Is this guy trying to bullshit us?" -type of look).
Should I mention my slim and timid neighbour at table, the un-coupled madrileña who was invited to redress the boy-girl balance at table ( since this blogger of yours is prowling the streets of the Ciudad as a solitary wolfish person)? Better not. Well, I just did, no?

Victorino Martín

Death Penalty at Las Ventas..



Retro Sci-Fi image at a corrida Posted by Picasa


The "Victorinos", from the ganaderia of Victor Martín, are supposed to be the bravest (and more expensive) toros bravos of the whole Ibero-American world. Last corrida in Las Ventas was sold out accordingly.. Rupert invited me to attend this 73rd (I repeat, 73rd !) bullfight of this year's season in the Mudejar-inspired arena of Madrid.
Close to my seat (or rather a spot on the stone stands turned comfortable with a cushion rented for 2 Euros) are the steep steps that have to remain free during the bullfight mass. An usher, a young man with plain clothes and a Airline Captain hat, seats down on these steps, just next to me, for the death of the sixth and last bull of that afternoon. He says hello and engages in some quick critical reviewing of the latest corridas with obviously long-acquainted aficionados. In front of me, a hardened finca-owner likes something in what was said, turns back and offers the young man a cigar. "Thank you! Can't smoke while on duty, but I'll smoke once this corrida over". He smiles, at the same time keeping an eagle eye on the stands around him to prevent people from standing up and start to leave their places. He's very strict. The bull is about to receive the "coup de grâce". A death penalty executed by a sword-carrying matador is a serious business, to be watched in silence and with due respect.

Bruce Wayne

Super-heroes partying in a toff suburb...



Leopard-woman and bat-bear...Posted by Picasa

Last Saturday the "Golden Youth" birds of Madrid engaged in a concerted migration from their usual drinking territory, in the upper floor of "Pasha", to a detached villa in the posh neighborhood of Puerta de Hierro, where four fun-lovers were throwing a fancy-dress party. The theme had something to do with Comics and Super-heroes.
I hesitated on what actually to wear, and decided for Bruce Wayne, the only super-hero in Americana who has a hint of effortless elegance. A cape and bat-logo carrying teddy-bear was the code to the role I was assuming. I must say that although the party was great and populated by a impressive array of quite beautiful looking young Zorras, Incredible Girls, Catwomen, and Wilmas (from Flintstones, who in Spain are called "Picapedras" !! ) I didn't enjoy it as much as it would have been the case, say, a decade ago.. And why was that? Insufficient moisturizer and beauty sleep? Sticking to water because of being afraid of crashing recently acquired 350 horsepower toy? Still difficult adaptation to loud flamenco-derived beats? General stuffiness of posh chicas? All of the above?
The Pink Samosaiguana was ravishing but petulant as usual, no doubt enjoying the various courtships on the diminutive lawned garden..
As this blogger of yours was leaving, at around 4.30 am, BigJo exclaimed with genuine, un-feigned surprise "Already! Now, that the party is about to begin?". These are the night-hours of this City. But I was dying to get rid of the responsibilities of 4x4-parenthood to be able to grasp at last a stiff "Famous Grouse" with soda...

Roberto Rosselini

A bucolic alternative to key-codes on front doors...



Refusing HichTech solutions... Posted by Picasa

What does a DolceVita Host, living on a fourth floor, when a dinner guest (this blogger of yours) claims the street door is refusing to open? Going downstairs himself armed with the right key? Sending instead his manservant, occupied at that very minute in giving the last touch to the dinner-to-be? Enveloping the key with hastily crumbled paper and throwing the resulting arts & crafts ball to the pavement, hoping not to cause damage either to the parked cars or to the cranial target (this blogger of yours if the Honourable Reader has already forgotten) at close to street level? No, there must a better way. More ecological, more elegant, both hassle and decibels-free. That's when a solid cultural background becomes handy. Trips off the Amalfi coast in anchovy-and-butter toasted yachting cruises, viewings of neo-realism iconic films in University smoke-filled amphitheatres, and a genuine distaste for unnecessary technology.
A little basket, the real thing, not an ersatz in mouldable plastic (gasps of horror!) and a strong-enough rope made of hemp (not nylon! - re-gasps of rejection), and the trick is done. Like a pre-spacetravel shuttle the basket brings down slowly but surely its Sesame-like content. The Madrid building becomes a façade in a popular street of Naples for about six minutes..
In case the Honourable Reader might be tempted to ask, I rush to rest Him and to confirm that the dinner-party itself was as pleasant as the prelude..

Duke of Windsor

Keeping straight standards ..



in pole position, awaiting respective shirts .. Posted by Picasa



What is the most time-consuming bit of one's morning dressing routine, when in a hurry? The cuff links insertion surely? The buttoning up of a striped shirt, perhaps? Overcoming decision-paralysis regarding the pattern of one's tie? I must disappoint the Honourable Reader on this one. My personal experience has taught me, the hard way, that one can never rush the selection of the appropriate pair of these flat rocket-shaped pieces of celluloid (the same material of table-tennis balls, in fact) that will keep the collar of the shirt we've just picked up in that straight formal position required. Tiresome, I know.. But one has to keep standards..

Monday, October 10, 2005

Marquess of Villanueva

An hangovered weekend


(clockwise:) Chinese Haute Cuisine; a cowardly "Victorino" at Las Ventas; a Neapolitan device to accede to a dinner-party; a long queue to the loo in a fancy-dress rave. Posted by Picasa


Apologies in advance to the Honourable Reader if this blogger of yours will not find the stamina to report on the events of this last weekend. I'm drinking plenty of iced water though. Maybe tomorrow.

Thursday, October 06, 2005

Rafael Moneo

Expanding the Prado...


Columns of near-Karnak proportions at the New Prado Museum Posted by Picasa


The Honourable Reader who has kept faith in this blog and keeps visiting it despite of everything can get some exclusive insights into Madrid's life now and then. How else could he get a glimpse of one of the new gigantic exhibition rooms, still under construction, planned for the expansion of the Museu del Prado, due to open in 2007?
Rafael Moneo, the celebrated Spanish architect who gave us the absolutely wonderful National Museum of Roman Art in Merida, got this challenging project. You can read more about this Pritzker Laureate in here: www.pritzkerprize.com/secone96.htm
Trying to impress the Pushkin-Caravaggio expert from Anjou I managed to secure a private viewing of the building site. Most thrilling moment? When we were precisely under the oval-shaped room where the "Las Meninas" is on show. For a split second, you didn't have to be a fan of the "Italian Job" or of "Ocean's Eleven" to imagine yourself robbing the Velazquez masterpiece and leaving, with a smile, if not with the Angevine herself, at least with either with Ms. Charlize Theron or Ms. Julia Roberts...

Antonio Ribeiro Telles

A sunny afternoon at the arena (II) ...



Antonio Ribeiro Telles, last Sunday in Alcacer do Sal Posted by Picasa

Ok,ok.. Let's have a more gentle picture of the Corrida. Nothing in here could embarrass an animal-lover.

João Núncio

A sunny afternoon at the arena...


blood and sweat, but no tears Posted by Picasa


No excuses, no middle-of-the-road stand. You either relish a bullfight or you abhor it. When you like it you have to embrace the whole package. Not only the "dressage"-like beauty of the horse's ballet movements, not only the artistry and courage of the humans involved, but the gory infliction of wounds to the noble animal too. Is the bull's suffering justifiable? No, it's not. Is it reason enough to ban bullfight? No, it's not. Some not justifiable things and even maybe not legitimate pursuits can still gather social consensus, and avoid interdiction. What would happen to the preservation of cultural diversity inside the multi-identity European space if one would start to ban politically incorrect near-barbarian mores? Long live the Corrida!

Monday, October 03, 2005

Ricardo do Espirito Santo Silva

Best kept secret on the Portuguese Coast



"Fish On Sale Here!" Posted by Picasa

In October!.. Long swims on a placid Atlantic Ocean.. Late lunches with giant reddish shrimps.. A grateful race dog.. One small tribe reunited...

Now, back to work and to the real world..

Alfieri Maserati

Forget your left foot, Damn it!


Maserati Quatroportte Posted by Picasa


Sometimes the Honourable Reader might be tempted to think this blogger of yours is a boring arty-farty kind of person, spending too much time at the fronts of the Kulturkampf. Not even the occasional description of a fancy-dress party seems to prevent him for thinking so. It gives me a certain pleasure then to tell this little story that happened to me last week, involving the indulgence of trying a Maserati Quatroportte, the most beautiful and elegant car of the current days.
Only a true intellectual (in the sense of a person that introduces a reasoning and a cultural context in between perception and its follow-through) can enjoy a soap-opera without guilt; only a serious person with the capacity of profound insights can enjoy thoroughly the joys of self-frivolity.
To try a grey-silver Maserati with warm burgundy leather seats in the lanes of a self-contained Reservation of the super-rich in Madrid is, perhaps, the epitome of a frivolous act.
The Gods had an ironic reminder, though, that one should never count on a free ride.
As I was leaving the drive-way where my Italian Homologue had stopped to let me have, myself, a go at tasting the wheel of the beautiful "berlina", I got a sense that my handling of the sequential automatic transmission might be less than up to standards. I went ahead, any how, with the nonchalant recklessness that a car a like this demands. This Fitzgeraldian toy roared like an ad for Metro, Goldwin & Mayer, and a few seconds later all I had to do was to gently touch a handle on the right of the wheel to accede to the upper gear. Something went wrong.. and I had the (pre-automatic gearbox era) traditional reflex to press hard the non-existing changing-gears pedal to prepare for the next maneuver. I found the brakes pedal instead, of course, and the powerful brakes did their job accordingly, and very efficiently, thank you very much. For a split second - the AudenFan, on the back-seat; the Director for Europe of Maserati (white and ashy-looking), seated alongside the driver; and this driving blogger of yours - we all thought some or the other of the cars following us on the road were going to crash that 150 ooo Euros-worth of elegant "carrosserie". It did not happen, I'm glad to report, and the blood circulation was re-established in my corporate neighbour's face, who advised me, without even a hint of anxiety in his voice: "Just forget your left foot altogether". I drove without further incident to our starting point, set next to the manicured lawn and the fountained small lake. As I left the car the flash lights of the photographers and the rush of the busy TV cameramen gave the final touch of reality-show-like unreal aura to it all.
As much as I've liked the gorgeous Maserati, its acquisition is out of question though , I must regretfully conclude. Can't afford it and, besides, my new Porsche has not even reached 2000 km yet...

Anton Denikin

A whiter shade of pale...



This emigré returns at last ... Posted by Picasa


The remains of General Denikin have returned to Moscow, to the Donskoi Monastery. Another small step in the right direction, because without confronting the past there's no democratic political redemption. White Russia was either demonized or sanctified, and it's hard to keep a balanced view, but surely the February to October months in 1917 and the collapse of the non-Bolshevik forces was one of the saddest missed opportunities in recent political history. Imagine what could the mental health of Russia be today if the traumas of Oulianov and Djugashvili-ordered massacres and persecutions had never taken place?